Let's tango!

The VIII Buenos Aires Festival Tango will take place from February 24th to March 5th.
Check out the complete schedule: http://www.tangodata.gov.ar/
This site offers complete information about tango artists, shows, latest releases, the new Buenos Aires writers, keys and lyrics, articles, interviews, tango contests and more.
Find out all about Palermo milongas (http://www.tangodata.gov.ar/ingles/home_milongas_resultado.php) and Tango classes in Palermo (http://www.tangodata.gov.ar/ingles/home_clases_resultado_2.php).
Let's tango!

Palermo Audio Guide

Check out http://www.bue.gov.ar/audioguia/?info=audios&idrecorrido=37 for 12 Palermo audio guides. You can choose Portuguese, Spanish or English for listening. This is the selection: Tango in Palermo, Plaza Italia, Jorge Luis Borges, Mythical Block, Buenos Aires according to Borges, El Preferido de Palermo, An "arrabal" neighborhood (city slum), A neighborhood of one-story houses, House of Julio Cortazar, Design in Palermo, Julio Cortazar Square, Palermo Hollywood, gastronomic route, and “Mercado de las Pulgas” Flea Market. Enjoy it!

Sleeping in Palermo Viejo

Many youth hostels and B&B have opened in Palermo Viejo since the peso devaluation and due to Argentina's tourism boom. This is a great location for staying due to the best cutting-edge restaurants, designer boutiques and hip dance clubs. If you are looking for a trendy 'hood, Palermo Viejo is definitely your choice. Coming soon, hotels, hostels, B&B, apartments for rent...

Places to visit in Palermo

Check out http://www.bue.gov.ar/home/ & (http://www.palermonline.com.ar/index.html) for places to visit in Palermo. Here are some of the most important spots.

• Tres de Febrero Park or Bosques de Palermo: designed by French architect and landscaper Carlos Thays and inaugurated on November 11, 1875. It is one of the big green spaces in the city, with 740 acres between Del Libertador Avenue, Salguero, Rafael Obligado Avenue and Pampa St. There are marvelous lakes and every September 21, students gather to celebrate their day and the beginning of spring, while families take advantage of the spot to take walks along the lovely grounds during the entire year. You can enjoy the “Poets Garden” provided with sculptures by different plastic artists, the “Andalusian Yard” covered with trees foliage and the “Roses Garden” or Rosedal (http://www.cedom.gov.ar/es/ciudad/paseos/capitulo6_c.html) with 15,000 rose bushes and plants of 1,189 different species. The Spaniards’ Monument (or Magna Charta and the Four Regions of Argentina) by sculptor Agustín Querol y Subirats was donated by the Spanish community. It is located on Sarmiento and Del Libertador Avenues. Its materials are bronze and marble, with the final detail of the image that represents the Republic.
• Buenos Aires Zoo: on Sarmiento and Las Heras Avenues. It was created at the initiative of President Sarmiento. Since being turned over to private hands on a concession basis, this legendary city zoo has recovered its past brilliance with professional care for the specimens inhabiting it. Among the very special sights that can be seen are the white tigers, of which there are fewer than 200 specimens in the world. In addition to the impressive array and variety of species that live in spots that recreate their natural habitats, the Buenos Aires Zoo also offers specially designed spaces like the bears’ gothic pavilion; the French palace, with its slate roof, that houses the lions, or the 10,000-square-foot reproduction of a Bombay temple which is, obviously, where diverse Indian elephants reside. (http://www.zoobuenosaires.com.ar/index_fla_on.htm)
• Botanical Garden: Designed by Carlos Thays, it was inaugurated on September 7, 1898. It occupies a surface of 69,772 square meters and comprises about 5,500 shrub species, arboreal species and herbaceous species sorted by place of origin, family and use. Five green houses included. Green house number 1 has been taken from France in 1900, after being awarded at the famous Fair of Paris where the Eiffel Tower was exhibited for the very first time. The English-style central building was built in 1881. This is the place where Thays lived with his family during his last years as Director of Parks of Buenos Aires City (1892-1898). The Government of Buenos Aires City has officially declared the Botanic Garden “Carlos Thays” of Cultural Interest, as it has been considered part of the Cultural Creation of the City. At the entrance of the park, you can see an important collection of art pieces. (http://www.buenosaires.gov.ar/areas/med_ambiente/botanico/?menu_id=11360)
• Rural Society: located at one of the most important spot in the city, on Sarmiento and Santa Fe Avenues. Following the signing of the title deed to the lands where the Rural Society is located, the organization undertook an ambitious building project, which has allowed the staging of diverse contests and exhibitions. The Book Fair is sometimes held in its premises. However, the most famous offering of the Rural Society is the country’s cattle show. It is usually held in the month of July or August and is visited by people from around the country and abroad. The best of the countryside converges on this spot where awards are conferred on the champions of the Argentine farmlands. (http://www.ruralarg.org.ar/)
• Japanese Garden: Located within Tres de Febrero Park, it was created in 1967 by the Japanese community residing in Argentina. Ten years later, the landscape artist Yasuo Inomata redesigned the Garden inspired on Zen gardens that are generally located at the main entrance of temples. The garden surface occupies nearly 5 acres. There is an artificial lake that takes up 70 per cent of the whole garden, as well as several bridges and isles. The main isle is The Gods Island, where you can reach through a curved bridge or the Good Venture Bridge. The flora comprises 150 species, most of them brought from Japan. The main attractions are the Monument to the Japanese Immigrant - as homage to the founding community - and the Peace Bell used every year to celebrate the world peace day. There is an oriental restaurant and a cultural place called Tea House that offers exhibitions, shows and conferences related to the Japanese culture. Av. Casares and Av. A. Berro. (http://www.ruralarg.org.ar/)
• Palermo Chico or Barrio Parque: a residential and extremely beautiful part of Palermo, bounded by Figueroa Alcorta Avenue, between Tagle and San Martín de Tours). There are mostly two- and three-story town houses owned by TV artists and embassies.
• Museum of Decorative Arts: located in what used to be the Errázuri Palace, a prime example of the Bourbon architecture that influenced a greater part of the majestic buildings in the Buenos Aires of the early 20th century. (http://www.mnad.org/)
• José Hernández Museum of Argentine Subjects: It houses all the collections pertaining to our traditions, including all translations of “Martín Fierro.” (http://www.mujose.org.ar/)
• Malba (Buenos Aires Museum of Latin American Art: http://www.malba.org.ar/web/).
• Eduardo Sívori Museum (http://www.museosivori.org.ar/)
• The oldest part of Palermo is known, precisely, as Palermo Viejo (old Palermo) and it ranges from the rear of Plaza Italia toward the southeast. Its beginnings were as a lower-class outskirt, worthy of tango lyrics and of the pen of writers like Evaristo Carriego and Jorge Luis Borges. Within Palermo we likewise find a beautiful place, in the area next to the Basílica del Espíritu Santo or “La Guadalupe,” which was designed by the architect Juan Beckeert and is built with black marble originally from the old Vienna opera house itself. The floor tiles are German, the stained glass is French and the remainder of the marble and wood is high-quality Argentine material.
• Planetario: http://www.planetario.gov.ar/quienes.htm
• Evita Museum: (http://www.museoevita.org/)

Eating in Palermo Viejo

Buenos Aires has become a wonderfully city to eat out since the devaluation of the peso. And
Palermo Viejo is definitely the best neighborhood in town to find a variety of upscale restaurants serving international cuisine. If you are looking for innovative cuisine, you can try a different place every single day of the year (there are 372 restaurants only in these area, according to today's Clarin article mentioned in my previous post). Competition keeps quality high. So, make up your mind. What will it be first? Argentine regional food, seafood, Thai, Moroccan, Mexican, French, Italian, Japanese? The list goes on. Coming soon...

Palermo Viejo in the local media

This morning I read an article called "Palermo no para de cambiar: cada vez menos casas y más negocios" (Palermo continues to change: there are fewer houses and more shops) at Clarin.com. I decided to include articles about the subject, found in the local media, as well as in international media. Check out http://www.clarin.com/diario/2006/02/17/laciudad/h-04215.htm to read the complete article I have just mentioned. I included here only the map and the pictures published on it. Streets marked in red are supposed to be the ones with more shops. But Serrano, Gurruchaga, Armenia and Malabia streets (in Palermo Soho) should have been marked in red as well.

The following pictures show three different corners in Palermo Viejo. You can observe how they used to be, and how they look once they turned into a business.

Palermo Viejo in the international media

Everybody is talking about Buenos Aires and Palermo Viejo is a must. Take a look at some of the international articles I found on the internet.

• The globeandmail.com: Welcome to hipster heaven: Buenos Aires . By TRALEE PEARCE. January 21, 2006 http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20060121.wxba0121/BNStory/specialTravel/home
• JC Report: The Pulse of Palermo. By Jason Campbell. January 12-25, Issue 82 http://www.jcreport.com/mailer/issue82/index.html
• The New York Times: 10 O'Clock? The Night Is Young.By TRIPTI LAHIRI Published: March 6, 2005 http://travel2.nytimes.com/2005/03/06/travel/06surf.html?ex=1140411600&en=c03a9ab1117c63e1&ei=5070
• The Washington Post: In Buenos Aires, a Fashionable Fling. By Walter Nicholls. January 23, 2005 http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A26708-2005Jan21.html

El Salvador 4600-4700

A few days ago I posted "El Salvador 4500-4600". Today, let's walk one more block.
On the corner of El Salvador at Malabia St., you'll notice an art-deco house turned into a trendy shop. This is Tucci (http://www.tucciweb.com/). Just on its left, on the first floor, kitsch El Diamante restaurant, is a Sergio De Loof creation & is included in the Condé Nast Traveler's Hot List Nights 2005. Cluny (El Salvador 4618, http://www.cluny.com.ar/) is a "resto de charme" as they call themselves. On the same block, Nadine Zlotogora (El Salvador 4638, http://www.nadinez.com/) is worth a visit. Almost at the corner, you'll reach Humawaca (http://www.humawaca.com/) for leather stuff, Owoko (http://www.owoko.com.ar/) for kids clothing, and at the corner, Cora Groppo (http://www.coragroppo.com/). Across the street, on El Salvador, you'll find Eufemia (El Salvador 4601), Boating http://www.boating.com.ar/(men's shoes), Chibel (El Salvador 4611 http://www.chibel.com/) for kids clothes, brand-new De la Ostia (women's clothing), Vintage (men's clothing), Mariano Bress (El Salvador 4645), Lupe (El Salvador 4657), Mishka (El Salvador 4673) for trendy shoes, visit Mercer if only just to see the shop (El Salvador 4677), & brand-new restaurant Mott, almost at the corner.

A little bit of Palermo's History

The neighborhood of Palermo is bounded, in accordance with article 1 of By-law No. 26,607, Municipal Bulletin No. 14,288, published on May 4, 1972, by: La Pampa, Pres. Figueroa Alcorta Avenue, Valentín Alsina Avenue, Zabala, Cabildo Avenue, Jorge Newbery, Cramer, Dorrego Avenue, Córdoba Avenue, Mario Bravo, Coronel Díaz Avenue, Gral. Las Heras Avenue, Tagle, the Gral. Bartolomé Mitre railroad tracks, Jerónimo Salguero Avenue, Rafael Obligado Riverside Avenue.
The origin of the name Palermo given to the neighborhood isn’t quite clear. It can be related to Don Juan Domínguez Palermo, who in the early 17th century was the owner of the lands. As places were commonly named after their churches or adored saints, some neighbors say that the neighborhood was called that way because St. Benito of Palermo was venerated there.
This was the neighborhood of Don Juan Manuel de Rosas. In 1836 he became the owner of these beautiful lands, where he built his official residence on what are today’s Libertador and Sarmiento Avenues. After his defeat on February 3, 1852, in the battle of Caseros, Justo José de Urquiza, the victorious general, occupied his residence, which would later become the headquarters of the School of Arts and Trades, of the Military College and of the Naval College. In 1889, Rosas’ house was demolished for the park created by Sarmiento, an old political enemy of Rosas.
The picture is a view of the Zoo and the Rural Society at the back. I shoot it last year.

Shop till you drop

Lonely Planet's Buenos Aires city guide introduces Buenos Aires as an absolutely buzzing city with a new-found energy. "The sudden crash of Argentina's peso in 2001 turned one of the most expensive cities in the world into one of the cheapest."
Buenos Aires is getting hotter by the second and the secret's just coming out. So, check out Palermo Viejo for the trendiest things in town and shop till you drop.

Buenos Aires, Argentina appointed UNESCO City of Design

The city of Buenos Aires, Argentina was appointed as the first UNESCO City of Design on 24 August 2005.Through public-private collaboration, the city of Buenos Aires has been able to harness the energy and innovation of its design sector for development initiatives on a local, regional and international level.
Not only has the city diversified its economic growth potential, but it has also engaged a broad array of stakeholders in building one of the most vibrant and dynamic design scenes in Latin America.
As a cross-road of diverse backgrounds, histories, people and ethnicities, the city of Buenos Aires has been capturing the essence of diversity and creativity in order to develop one of the most viable and productive design industries in the South American continent.
Spanning the fields of fashion, architecture, industrial, interior and urban design with a keen focus on incorporating the latest technology and know-how, Buenos Aires is a city that inspires design.
http://portal.unesco.org/culture/en/ev.php-URL_ID=28243&URL_DO=DO_TOPIC&URL_SECTION=201.html

Argentina Leads Prestigious Tourist Guide's List of Ten Most Recommended Countries to Visit in 2006

This article is in Spanish and appeared in the online version of La Nación newspaper. Following is a hastily written English translation. Link to article: http://www.lanacion.com.ar/informaciongeneral/nota.asp?nota_id=771898

La Argentina lidera el ranking de una prestigiosa guía de turismo.
La lista de Lonely Planet contiene los diez países más recomendados para visitar en 2006; señalan la "fabulosa cultura, comida y vinos" y la "belleza natural extraordinaria" de nuestras tierras.
[Argentina Leads Prestigious Tourist Guide's List of Ten Most Recommended Countries to Visit in 2006: Cites "fabulous culture, food and wine," and "the extraordinary natural beauty" of the land]

(Télam).- La Argentina figura al tope de una lista que contiene los diez países más recomendados para visitar en 2006, según una de las más prestigiosas publicaciones especializadas en turismo que consideró su "fabulosa cultura, comida y vinos" y su "belleza natural extraordinaria".
[Argentina stands at the top of the list of the ten countries most recommended to visit in 2006, according to one of the most prestigious tourist publications, which noted its "fabulous culture, food and wines" and its "extraordinary natural beauty."]

Así lo difundió en su última edición Lonely Planet , una guía internacional de viajes y turismo consultada por miles de viajeros y que todos los años elabora un ranking con los diez países recomendados para visitar.
[So says the latest edition of Lonely Planet, an international guide of travel and tourism consulted by thousands of travellers. Each year it publishes a ranking of the ten countries most recommended to visit.]

La Argentina figura por primera vez al tope de este ranking y, entre los factores que destaca la pubicación, figuran su "fabulosa cultura, comida y vinos" y la "belleza natural extraordinaria de sus paisajes", a la vez que remarca que es un país "culturalmente rico y a la vez moderno", "económicamente accesible" y "seguro".
[Argentina came in at the top of the list for the first time, and stood out for factors which include its "fabulous culture, food and wines" and its "extraordinary natural beauty," while at the same time it was noted that the country is "culturally rich and at the same time modern", "economically accessible" and "safe".]

La guía dice que, por estos factores, la Argentina es "la Nueva Zelanda de Sudamérica", al tiempo que remarca la "belleza de la Patagonia y la "bienvenida que le da a todos los viajeros".
[The guide says that, for these reasons, Argentina is "the New Zealand of South America," while noting "the beauty of Patagonia" and the "welcome that [the country] gives to all travellers.]

Orgullo. El secretario de Turismo de la Nación, Enrique Meyer, sostuvo que "es un orgullo y una gran satisfacción para nuestro país que un medio tan prestigioso y consultado por viajeros de todo el mundo califique a la Argentina de esta manera".
[Pride. The National Secretary of Tourism, Enrique Meyer, declared that "it is an honor and great satisfaction for our country that a publication so prestigious and used by so many travellers around the work describes Argentina in such a manner."]

Agregó además que este "es un indicio más de que las perspectivas turísticas de nuestro país hoy tienen un techo muy alto" y manifestó su optimismo para que este hecho "contribuya a mantener el incremento del turismo receptivo que se fue dando a lo largo del último año".
[He added that this "is another indication that the tourism prospects for our country are now very high" and expressed his optimism that this fact "will contribute to the increase in tourism that has been building since last year."]

Los destinos que siguen a la Argentina en el ranking son China, Nicaragua, Croacia, México, Antártida, Canadá, India, Colombia y Alemania, en ese orden.
[The destinations that follow Argentina in the ranking are China, Nicaragua, Croatia, Mexico, Antarctica, Canada, India, Colombia and Germany, in that order.]

Lonely Planet fue denominada por el diario español El Mundo como la "reina de las guías de viajes" por "la calidad de sus informaciones", y lleva ya publicados 500 títulos en inglés, alrededor de 50 en francés y 11 en español.
[Lonely Planet has been designated the "Queen of Travel Guides," by the Spanish journal "El Mundo" because of "the quality of its information." It has published approximately 500 titles in English, about 50 in French and 11 in Spanish.]

El Salvador 4500-4600

El Salvador at Scalabrini Ortiz Avenue is my favorite spot to start the tour.

You can get a nice map of the area at http://www.guiaypf.com.ar/esp/infinito/guiaypf/ruta/mapa/mapa/FMapa.asp?opcion=IBD&id=13376&ciudad=\Capital%20Federal\&calle=EL%20SALVADOR&nivel=12

On the left-hand side, you'll find Atípica objetos placenteros (El Salvador 4510, www.atipicaobjetos.com.ar).
This is a tiny shop on the very edge of Palermo Soho, with an overwhelming collection of Argentine ethnic designs, home decor and fashion accessories. All are unique pieces by local artists. Find silver jewelry, chandeliers, dolls, ceramics, glass, coasters, textiles, mirrors, boxes, neatly arrayed in one-of-a-kind pieces. Discounts happen from time to time. And if you can’t make it to Buenos Aires, you can order online; the hand made products are shipped all over the world...
Here are my favorite picks from Atípica:

There is a variety of handpainted handbags with animé motifs.

Silver necklaces & earrings.

Insects paper lamps and mirrors.

Cute cat artworks.

I love these ancient look dolls. They look great on the floor, over the bed, a sofa or on a shelf.

Wooden or cardboard boxes worked with collage technique and handpainted indigenous motifs. Ideal for keeping tea bags, storing jewelry or whatever you wish...

If you continue walking towards Malabia St., you'll find the following shops on this same block: Assley (El Salvador 4564, www.assley.com.ar), Couceiro (El Salvador 4566, www.couceiro.biz), Rocío Martinez, Maria Aversa (El Salvador 4580, www.mariaaversa.com.ar), Garden Angel (El Salvador 4588, http://www.universogardenangels.com), Marcela Pagella (El Salvador 4590) and Arte Étnico Argentino (El Salvador 4600, http://www.arteetnicoargentino.com).

About Trendy Palermo Viejo

Palermo Viejo is Buenos Aires most trendsetting spot. Bounded by Avs Santa Fe, Scalabrini Ortiz, Córdoba and Juan B. Justo, Palermo Viejo is divided into Palermo Hollywood and Palermo Soho. The former is north of Av. Juan B. Justo and was named for the TV and radio stations located there, as well as video producers and photographers' studios. A lot of trendy restaurants are located in this area. Palermo Soho is south of Av. Juan B. Justo and has a very pleasant atmosphere, leafy sidewalks and cobbled streets. It is a residential area mixed with the trendiest shops of Buenos Aires. Ultramodern hip and ethnic restaurants, cafés, fashion designers boutiques and deco stores are spread all over Palermo Soho.
This blog will bring you block-by-block information about shops, restaurants, hotels, cafes, bars, etc. located in this area. It will help you find that perfect gift you are looking for, to pamper yourself or your loved ones. Or simply help you find that particular ethnic food you are willing to try.
Coming soon... photos, links to websites, special discounts, comments about new arrivals, shops architecture, designers’ interviews, and more.
Enjoy the trendiest spots of beautiful Palermo Viejo.